Burberry’s new artistic director Daniel Lee makes his debut at London Fashion Week

Written by Fiona Sinclair Scott, CNNLondon

Designer Daniel Lee made his debut as Burberry’s new chief artistic officer on Monday evening inside a packed, purpose-built venue below the shadow of London’s Oval stadium — the house of cricket, a quintessentially British sport. Other traditional hallmarks of Brand Britain got here early on, within the type of dreary weather-battling sizzling water bottles and thick blankets on every seat. Hot toddies had been additionally served to friends earlier than the present.

The highly-anticipated occasion, attended by VIPs together with Naomi Campbell, Bianca Jagger, Skepta and Anna Wintour, marked a homecoming for the boy from Bradford, West Yorkshire, who beforehand held the highest artistic function at Italian label Bottega Veneta.

Speaking to press backstage, Lee stated he needed to “celebrate what’s great about the country.”

“What’s unique about London and why I’m so happy to be back here is I’m so inspired all the time. When you walk down the street you see people from so many different walks of life living together and that’s something that I’ve missed.”

Iris Law walks the runway on the Fall-Winter 2023 Burberry present throughout London Fashion Week. Credit: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Images

Burberry's FW23 collection was full of rich textures including this feathery look.

Burberry’s FW23 assortment was filled with wealthy textures together with this feathery look. Credit: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Images

And it was apparently with this spirit that Lee created his first assortment for the model. His new imaginative and prescient for Burberry will not be a return to conventional British sartorial cues — the beige trench was virtually solely MIA — however reasonably an try to push the label ahead into an edgier area.

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English mustard yellow, deep purples and reds and injections of royal blue fashioned the bottom coloration palette for a set that featured bomber jackets and pleated, tartan-inspired kilts styled over trousers. One might think about the late priestess of punk Vivienne Westwood, for whom the London Fashion Week was devoted, giving the present a thumbs up.

But for this debut to be a real win, Burberry goes to want extra widespread approval.

Its new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd has already made his ambitions clear, extensively touting his purpose of rising the British style home — and one of many final remaining impartial luxurious labels — right into a £5 billion ($6 billion) megabrand.

Designer Daniel Lee takes a bow after his first show for Burberry.

Designer Daniel Lee takes a bow after his first present for Burberry. Credit: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Images

Anna Wintour was just one of the VIPs in attendance. She was later spotted backstage congratulating Daniel Lee.

Anna Wintour was simply one of many VIPs in attendance. She was later noticed backstage congratulating Daniel Lee. Credit: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Images

Bianca Jagger and Georgia May Jagger attend the Burberry show.

Bianca Jagger and Georgia May Jagger attend the Burberry present. Credit: David M. Benett/Getty Images for Burberry

Lee’s appointment is a key pillar of this technique, with Akeroyd presumably banking on the designer’s transformative and commercially-successful impression on Bottega Veneta in addition to his spectacular CV, which incorporates stints at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga, Donna Karan and Céline.

At Bottega, Lee made a powerful mark together with his fashionable method to traditional leather-based items, specifically the Pouch clutch — a star favourite — and the Cassette bag.

On Monday, a primary glimpse of equipment on the runway revealed a playful and in depth array of sneakers and luggage, many adorned with fake fur. Chunky work boots and rubber rain sneakers, alongside slouchy suede knee-highs had been simply a few of the footwear choices Lee laid out for the approaching Fall-Winter season. The luggage ranged from furry, outsized shapes to extra traditional leather-based saddle designs embellished with a easy lowercase “b” emblem.

A model wears a T-shirt with the words "Roses aren't always red," printed across the front.

A mannequin wears a T-shirt with the phrases “Roses aren’t always red,” printed throughout the entrance. Credit: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Images

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Checked blankets had been thrown over fashions’ shoulders and paired with cozy, classically British Aran jumpers. The English rose motif made a number of appearances although not, as one T-shirt reminded us, in its conventional type.

Long-sleeved tees with “the rose is not always red,” and “winds of change” signaled literal change, based on Lee. “Change for me, change for the brand,” he reiterated.

While the financial fallout from Brexit, a ropey dealing with of the Covid-19 pandemic and the slew of management adjustments of late haven’t painted a very cool image of Britain to the world, Lee appeared decided to remind onlookers that the Isles have one thing extra to offer.

“There is great music here, great theater, great art. I want to shine a light on those things and show a positive side of Britain to the world.”

Top picture: Models file out for the finale at Burberry’s Fall-Winter 2023 present.